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An Encounter with the Virunga Gorillas

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Gorilla Tour

Mountain gorilla are endangered apes that were on the verge of extinction in the 1990’s because of the civil wars where their natural habitats had been turned into fighting grounds and hiding places for soldiers.

After a lot of conservation efforts by the Rwandan government, the mountain gorilla population started increasing steadily and today Volcanoes National Park is a home to half of the total mountain gorilla population in the Virunga massif that extends from northwestern Rwanda, south western Uganda and southeastern DR Congo.

Mountain gorillas are some of human’s closest wild animals with over 98% of their DNA similar to humans. They prefer living in the forested mountain and are vegetarians that feed on plant leaves, shoots and wild fruits. They are mobile animals that move from one place to another as they look for fresh food ad for new places where they will spend a night.

The Volcanoes national park has a total of 14 habituated mountain gorilla families. Each mountain gorilla family is tracked by a group of strictly 8 tourists every day, which they spend with one hour as they observe, take photographs and learn more about the life of these greatly endangered apes.

Tourists going for gorilla tracking first assemble at the national park headquarters very early in the morning where the local traditional dancers entertain them as they take a cup of hot tea or coffee. They are allocated to the mountain gorilla family they will be tracking then briefed about the safety procedures to follow while in the forest. Some of the safety procedures include;

  • Following the guides instructions especially while in the forest
  • Keeping a reasonable distance a way from the mountain gorillas
  • Minimizing noise especially when in the presence of the mountain gorillas
  • Not using flash photography
  • Avoiding imitating the behavior of the mountain gorillas like beating the chest as it may send a wrong impression to the mountain gorillas.

After being briefed, the tourists are led to the forested mountains under the protection of two armed rangers. These carry guns they use to fire bullets to scare away other dangerous wild animals that could be encountered while tracking mountain gorillas.

A hike through the forested mountains is very exciting with views of other wildlife species in the Volcanoes National Park like birds.  The trek takes about 1 to 8 hours depending on the movement of the mountain gorillas. It’s a little hectic and a physically demanding activity however its always better for those who cannot hike for long distances to inform the guides or their tour operators early enough to ensure that they are allocated mountain gorilla families that can be got to after relatively shorter times of trek.

Alternatively there are porters for hire that can carry luggage and always help tourists to go move through the difficult parts of the forest. These porters can also carry some one on locally made stretchers up hill or down hill and can therefore be of great help in case their services are needed. They can be hired at about $10 to $15.

Mountain gorillas can be encountered at any time of the year however tracking can be more easy during the dry season because its always easy to move through the forests which may not be the case during the wet season. Tourists interested in mountain gorilla tracking should acquire permits that are sold at $750 each and can be obtained from the Rwanda development board or through a trusted tour operator.

The Volcanoes national park can be got to by road transport from Kigali a drive that takes about 2 to 3 hours.

10 Magical Things to See in East Africa

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Wildebeest Migration

East African region is made up of 5 countries which include Uganda, Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda and Burundi. Destination east Africa tourism is heating up as travelers want to experience diverse wildlife such as gorillas and big five mammals, cultures and beautiful landscapes. East Africa truly provides natural wonders to discover and explore on a safari, we have selected the best 10 thing to do.

When planning to visit more than two of the East Africa destinations, consider getting the single East Africa tourist visa. This visa is a joint tourism marketing campaign of Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda. The visa cost is $100 US and allows free entry and exit into the three mentioned countries. This visa does not allow entry into Tanzania as it is not part of the joint marketing effort.

Mountain gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda

Mountain gorillas live only in Uganda, Rwanda and DR Congo and nowhere else in the world. Gorillas are world’s largest primates, with a mature male gorilla called silverback weighing up to 220 kg. Getting close to a silver back is one of the most exciting wildlife encounters. You can only access gorillas by hiking on foot through very thick forests. Visitors are usually allowed to spend 1 hour or 4 hours taking photos and observing their features and behaviors such as feeding and grooming. Both Uganda and Rwanda provide perfect gorilla trekking safaris even though there are differences in the price of a gorilla permit.

Uganda is desirable because it is home to half of the world’s gorilla population with 24 habituated gorilla families available in Bwindi Forest National Park and the cost of a gorilla tracking permit is affordable at US$800. But the most impressive thing about Rwanda is the short distance (2 hours drive) from Kigali airport to Volcanoes National Park.

Great wildebeest migration Kenya and Tanzania

Each year, 2 million Wildebeests including zebra, Thomson’s gazelle, topi, migrate to and from Masai Mara reserve in Kenya and Serengeti in Tanzania. There has never been such a spectacle of wildlife elsewhere in the world; it is a natural world wonder to witness. During December to February, wildebeest in eastern Serengeti give birth. A calf is born and within 5 minutes it is able to run miles following its mother, a wild animal behavior seen nowhere else in the world. Game drive safaris follow the wildebeest migration in every corner and some camps are positioned better in areas where the animals cross such as along the Mara River. However, the timing is always different, so it is better to arrange a safari with expert tour operators. Most of the wildebeest viewing is full day but some safari packages can be tailor made for different locations both in Masai-Mara and Serengeti.

Golden Monkeys

Golden monkeys are unique primates endemic to Virunga Mountains, a chain of 8 volcanic mountains that stretch across the borders of Uganda, Rwanda and DR Congo. Mgahinga gorilla national park Uganda and volcanoes national park Rwanda are the only parks where golden monkeys have been habituated for tourists to visit. Golden monkey treks are done in Mgahinga or volcanoes national park and are convenient for those who are on a gorilla safari. The cost is easy at $80 US.

Murchison Falls

Found inside Murchison Falls Park in Uganda, the scenic Murchison Falls is the world’s strongest waterfall. It is created by river Nile as it squeezes through a narrow gorge and falls off 45 meters cliff to form what is known as a devil’s cauldron.

A hike to the top of the falls on a cliff offers impressive view of the falls and the Nile. Although the waterfall is spectacular, it is not the only reward. Visitors who undertake boat cruises on the Nile can spot hippos, Nile crocodiles, and birds while game drives around Nile-Delta swamp reward to wildlife viewing including elephants, buffalo, giraffe, zebra, lion, leopard, hyena, Uganda kob, patas monkeys, warthogs and Jackson’s hartebeest.

Source of the Nile Jinja

Jinja city found in eastern Uganda is the source of River Nile. Being the longest river on earth as well as few of the northward flowing rivers, the Nile waters in Jinja offer the best white water rafting and kayaking places in the world. Averagely the flow of Nile water in Jinja is said to between 1000- 1500 cubic meters per second, which means it has huge and grade 5 and 3 rapids.

After rafting or kayaking, Jinja city is worth to explore. Other activities include boat rides, horseback riding, cycling. It is also home to the Nile brewery, manufactures of beers like club, Nile special, castle rite. Jinja is also located very close to Mount Elgon national park, the world’s largest caldera and home to wildlife such as elephants, zebras and birds.

Big Five Mammals

Big five African mammals include the elephant, rhino, buffalo, lion and leopard. For visitors looking to spot all the big 5 in just a day and in big numbers the best places to go to are Ngongoro conservation area, Serengeti and Masai mara. Encounters with big five mammals are done by going on a guided game drives with a ranger which sometimes require full day spent out in the wilderness.

Wild Chimpanzees

Chimpanzees are closely related to humans and share around 98.7% of their DNA with man. The largest population of chimps is found in Uganda’s Kibale national park. In addition to Kibale, Uganda has other 3 places to see chimps in the wild including Budongo forest in Murchison falls, Kyambura gorge and Kalinzu forest reserve in Queen Elizabeth national park. Chimpanzee treks in Uganda are almost done in the midst of big game parks which means you can do chimps in the morning and then embark on game drives in the evening.

In Rwanda chimpanzee can also be seen in Nyungwe Forest which is about 7-8 hours drive Kigali. In Tanzania in chimps are found in Gombe stream national park where the Jane Goodall institute. However, this park is only accessible by a boat cruise.

Zanzibar Islands

Zanzibar islands are found in Tanzania along the coast of the Pacific Ocean. Zanzibar has some of the beautiful beaches but is it celebrated for its ancient and culture. historical and heritage sites such as palace museum, stone town, prison island, Forodhani market, old fort offer insight into the slave trade and modern mixture of Swahili, Arab and Indian kuli culture. that comes with food and various dishes, such as sea food, Swahili cuisine, Indian fusion at restaurants and cafes.

Canopy walks in Nyugwe Forest

The largest canopy bridge walks in east Africa are found in Nyungwe forest national park- southwestern Rwanda. Nyungwe is an ancient forest offering hiking opportunities to see chimpanzee, colobus monkey, waterfalls, birds and butterflies. For visitors just seeking breathtaking jungle views the canopy walks are the best in the whole of east Africa. On the canopy walks, visitors can see wildlife in the tree canopies.

What Taba Offers For A Holiday

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Egypt has a rich culture and a long history. Nowhere is this more apparent than in Taba. Walking among lush gardens, gazing at the uniquely styled buildings, or meandering along dusty avenues, one can easily imagine taking a step back in time to days of magic and miracles. Ancient ruins resting quietly in the baking desert sun give the place a sense of mystery and hidden meaning. It is easy to visualize the beginnings of the small Bedouin village that grew from the arid land to become the popular tourist attraction it is today.

The Taba hotels and resorts offer open balconies that allow for the enjoyment of the night air while offering the comfort of safety against the elements. Soft Egyptian cotton enfolds the body as sleep brings dreams of the ancient stories, handed down for generations. Those on business can arrange meetings, gain access to internet, enjoy the creature comforts such as a mini-bar, in-room safes and comfortable transport to and from the airport.

Located between the historical Sinai mountains and the legendary Red Sea, Taba is host to a variety of sites rich with history and meaning. There is the Monastery of St. Catherine, built during the 6th century. Many come to visit the great Mount Sinai with its three thousand steps and spectacular views. The air is still with the weight of the past at Salah El Din Citadel, located on Pharoh’s Island.

The National Park of Nabq waits for explorers to view the many wonders it offers. Wildlife flourishes there in a spectacular array of mammals, birds, and reptiles. Natural springs play watery music as bubbles rise to the surface, proving that history and nature can mingle in breath-taking form. Faded foot paths lead deeper into the National Park, and mysterious caves invite interest.

Beautiful views wait beneath the Red Sea for those that enjoy scuba diving. There are about twenty locations for scuba diving around the area. Those interested in learning how to scuba dive can find many places in Taba that offer lessons. Visiting Taba’s beautiful coastline, or the sea water lagoon can be a relaxing change of pace. Going on camel expeditions or taking a jeep safaris can be a new and exciting experience or enjoyable past-time for those familiar with it.

When Taba started out as a small Bedouin village, there was no real transportation system. After the installation of the Taba International Airport, Taba became a hub of tourist activity. The popularity of the area resulted in the building of four major hotels and a few smaller resorts. Taba is known for its geological formations such as the natural springs, caves and winding mountain passages. It also draws many tourists who enjoy sailing, diving, and other water sports. The wild life draws those with a passion for nature and the ancient sites bring many with an interest in history. At Taba, there is something for everyone. Every adventure can change the world into a wondrous mystery just waiting to be explored!

Amazing Stories of Cape Town’s Table Mountain

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Table Mountain

The Table Mountain in Cape Town is not only a magnificent sight. It is also the topic of several amazing myths, legends and stories. In this post I will share my favorites with you; two old legends and one true story.

The African Legend – Qamata vs Nkanyamba

This is the story of how Table Mountain was created, according to the traditional beliefs of the Xhosa people. It all starts with one of their most important gods, Qamata and his struggles to create dry land.

Qamata was the son of the sun god, Thixo, and the earth goddess, Jobela. He wanted to create dry land, but the dragon of the seas, Nkanyamba, was not pleased with that plan. The result was hard battles where Qamatas mother, Jobela, created four giants to fight against the sea dragon. Though, despite their size they could not withstand the dragon and they all were defeated. And as they died they all asked the earth goddess, Jobela, to turn them into mountains so they they could protect the land. Jobela did this, and the giant of the south became what we today know as Table Mountain.

The Dutch Legend – A Smoke Contest With The Devil

This is the legend of Jan Van Hunks and his passion for smoking. Van Hunks lived in a house at the foot of the mountain that we today call Devil’s Peak, and his favorite activity was smoking. Every day he would sit on the slopes of Devil’s Peak, smoking his pipe for hours. And then, one day, a stranger came up to him. They both were bragging about how much they could smoke, and they agreed to have a smoke contest. As a passionate smoker, Van Hunks probably thought he could beat anyone, but he did not know that the man he was competing against was the devil himself.

They placed a huge pile of tobacco in between them, and started puffing. Soon they were surrounded by smoke, and the cloud grew bigger and bigger until it covered the entire Table Mountain. Van Hunks had started to fear that he would actually loose the battle when he finally saw the stranger giving up. The man was too sick to continue, he leaned forward and the hat fell of his head. And that was when Van Hunks could see who he was up against. He had just beat the Devil in a smoking contest!

The devil was not pleased with loosing against a human, and being a bad looser, he clapped his hands and they both disappeared forever. But the smoke is still there to this day, a huge cloud on top of the Table Mountain, appropriately named the Table Cloth. And the Devil’s Peak was named after the stranger who lost a smoking contest on the mountain’s slopes.

A True Story of the Table Mountain

The Table Mountain is not only the topic of old myths and legends. This is the true story about how the Table Mountain became home to a huge, but short lived, Gold Rush.

In 1856 a local auctioneer, Mr Saleem, came up with a plot to make some quick money. He gave a piece of gold to his servant and asked him to tell the people of Cape Town that he had found the gold in the hills of Table Mountain. And not just that, he also said that there was a whole ore of gold up there, and more to find for whoever went to look for it. A scheme was successfully initiated.

As the rumor spread, people where racing to the mountain in order to dig for this precious metal. And as they arrived at the gorge where the gold was supposed to be hidden in the ground, they found that Mr Salem had already set up a base where he sold exactly what the men desired the most; beer, wine, spirit and sandwiches. At twice the price of what he could charge in town, of course. But the gold diggers where more than willing to pay, they were starving and thirsty from working in the heat. And surely they could afford it, soon their pockets would be full of gold.

The result was a five day gold rush in the Table Mountain, but no gold. The gold Mr Salem had given his servant was found in Australia years earlier. The only wealth created in this gold rush was a very nice profit to Mr Salem from his refreshments business. And Mr Salem fled the country soon after. To read the full story, check out today’s article in the Times Live: The Late, Great Cape Town Gold Rush.

Rwanda: Explore the Land of a Thousand Hills

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Ranked by the Gallup Report as Africa’s second safest country, Rwanda’s indicators are impressive and show that for 100,000 residents, the country has on average 2,5 murders per year. That is the lowest crime rate compared to other African countries.

In addition, Rwanda is the least corrupt and cleanest country in Africa. The government introduced a public cleaning initiative where citizens are required to partake in once a month.

After the Rwandan Genocide 25 years ago, the country has been  working hard to reinvent itself economically. With a host of businesses, some of the world’s best coffee and great dining, Rwanda is now capturing tourists who only used to just pass through.

While the country is landlocked, it is famously known for its breathtaking scenery, caustic soils and its quality of tea.

There are over 100 hotels in the city including big names like the Marriott and The Hilton.

The country is building a good relationship with tourists.

 Rwanda has become the most sought after wildlife destinations due to conservation of its faunas.

Must-do experiences in Rwanda:

Coffee tasting

Internationally Rwanda is regarded as the best coffee in East Africa, it ranks amongst the best globally. They export nearly 99% of their coffee. When you head there, try Shokola Café, a trendy spot in the city of Kigali.

Fashion

The people of Rwanda are known for their sense of style and always looking well represented. So when you are exploring the city make sure you look sharp. Pop in at the Kimoronko Market in Kigali for some colourful fabrics. You will even spot a few clothing items you might like at the market.

Street Art

When you are travelling around the city you will see bright artworks on the walls with positive messages. There are boutique shops where you can buy the local art and crafts like the Go Kigali Boutique .

Gorilla trekking

Rwanda has three main wildlife destinations; the Volcanoes National Park, Nyungwe Forest National Park and Akagera National Park. Mountain gorillas are found within the Volcanoes National Park and gorilla trekking is the most popular adventure activity that attracts most travelers to Rwanda.

Every day, a group of eight people are allowed to spend an hour with the gorillas. Mountain gorilla is one of the major reasons travelers visit Rwanda. Surely you would want to experience it too!

With so many good things about Rwanda mentioned above, from being the safest, cleanest country to having the best coffee in the world. Why would not want to include it on your travel bucket list?

Visit Rwanda quickly before the crowd arrives!

Explore Ilha do Cabo in Angola

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Ilha do Cabo in Angola

Come to the land of Angola and enjoy the travel delights in this part of the African continent. Enjoy the luxurious African winds and experience what you would never have seen before. This is the land of fun, excitement and adventure and enjoy the pleasures of being in a land of absolute delights and pleasures.

While here in Angola, you would surely not miss to go to Ilha de Cabo. The Ilha de Cabo is a land of deepest travel luxuries and gives you maximum tour delights. Ilha de Cabo or as it is otherwise known as Ilha de Luanda is a land of absolute delights and greatest travel memories. This is located a little off the shore of Luanda. This city Luanda is the capital of Angola and is a great place to be in. With a sandy strip that is formed by total sedimentation and absolute tour delights this is one land that is a great place to be in. the peninsula belongs to the INgombota municipality in the province of Luanda.

There was a Portuguese navigator by the name of Pauno Dias de Novais and he came to this land in the year 1575 and had many soldiers and also settlers .Then the island had Axi Iwanda which was sub group of the Ambundu people which was incidentally the tributary to KOngo Empire. The island was a very major location and used to collect zimbo. The zimbo are the shells that made up the KOngo King currency. This was the condition before the Portuguese arrived here. Then they came to this land and established themselves in this continent which lay in front of the island. Then they began to use the name of the inhabitants of Africa and they spelt it as Luanda and then it became Luanda.

Ilha is known by this name colloquially and is linked to the city through a passage and is situated at the base of the Fortress of Sao Miguel. This is the place where there are residents who come here and who try to recover from the stress that is seen in the capital especially during the weekends. There is a wide variety of restaurants and bars here and the beaches here are great pleasures. So come here and enjoy the beach pleasures here and also experience the flea markets which are a main attraction for the tourists here. There are marinas too which ensure that the visitor coming here get the best.

Visit the first church built here by the Portuguese in the region of Angola and get to see the best tour pleasures. This church the Nossa Senhora do Cabo is situated here and was erected sometime in the year 1575 by around 40 settlers and then they came to the mainland in the year 1576. They thus found the present day Luanda.

The culture here is greatly a carnival type and is called the Uniao Mundo da Ilha which is a carnival group here. It was founded in the year 1968 by the inhabitants of the land who were indigenous and they had a group which had many members of the 150 items that mainly have samba and varina as their main dance style. There were many elements that are a part of the group since the time it was founded and they are greatly popular today across the world in these kinds of dance styles
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There is a sports club here called the Clube nautico da Ilha de Luanda and is located on the island. There are many well known cuisine fare here and the Muzongue and the Mufete are very popular amongst the tourists. This is a type of broth that is very popular here in this land of culture, art and crafts.

Come here to the land of pleasure and great exciting adventures and feel the luxury of being in this land of Ilha de Cabo in the land of African adventurous travails.

The Ilha de Cabo is a great place to be in in this land of the African extravaganza in Middle Africa.

Hire from a Flexible Car Hire Company in Uganda

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Hiring from a flexible company is a best deal when looking for a company to hire from; some companies offers discounted rates depending on different situations like seasons, the number of days for hiring, return travelers can also be given a special rate. Companies which look into all those can be looked at a flexible company, and in return can attract very may clients and also get a competitive advantage over others.

At Uganda self drive, we put into consideration all the above. During low seasons which start from April, May, and September, we hire our cars on a discounted rate and pocket friendly rates and prices start as low as US$40 per day excluding fuel and a driver/gas. And during the low seasons , those who are interested in gorilla tracking, the prices for gorilla tracking permit is reduced to US$600 and UGX150,000 instead of UGX250,000 for citizens the price is per person per tracking.

Gorilla tracking is done in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park and Mgahiga Forest National Park both located in the south western part of Uganda. Once you book a car from us, we can also help you to book your gorilla permits or perhaps organizing the all gorilla tracking safari for you.

For our return travelers we do offer them a special discounted rate for considering booking with us again, we offer a 10% on any car booked, so hire from us again and again for a better deal during your safari to Uganda. And if you are hiring for more days from 7 days and above we offer a 5% discount rate on any vehicle you are interested to hire. So this flexibility has made us one of the number one car hire companies in Uganda. Below are some of the cars most liked and hired by travelers on either self-drive or with a driver

Toyota Premio is one of the sedan cars loved by very many people traveling along the city, they are suitable for up to four people very comfortable air-conditioned and well serviced. If hiring it during low season we can reserve it for you as low as US$35 per day without fuel and a driver. If you need a driver he charges US$30 per day. So if you are interested we can reserve it for you at any time.

Toyota Rav4: it’s a comfortable car suitable for safari and can reach any destination within the country or across borders. This type of vehicle is suitable for up to 4 people comfortably with air conditioner and it has adequate space for luggage. It’s commonly used for self-drive trips; however it can also be hired with a drive. For clients booking at low season we can hire it usd40 per day instead of usd45 in the months of April, May and September, also return clients or those booking it for longer days we charge them the same price. However, the charges excludes flue and driver

4WD Toyota Land Cruiser:  this is the most liked car for safaris, since it has a 35inch big tyre which allows navigation of tough terrine and muddy roads. They are comfortable with an air conditioner, in built fridge, pop-up roof, 2 spare tyres with a good space for luggage and it can accommodate up to 6 people and an extended land cruiser accommodates up to 8 people including a driver. It can reach each and every corner of Uganda including crossing borders. We can reserve this car for you at usd80 per day from usd$90; however, the charges excludes fuel but including a driver.

We also have safari van/supper custom, it’s very suitable especially for a big group from 7-10 people including a driver, it is well built with a pop-up roof which provide shade from hot and rain but also suitable when doing a game drive in the parks as it opens up and take photography of animals which are very far. They have enough space for luggages, air conditioner, and adequate seat row. This vehicle is hired at a discount rate during low season at of usd@70 per day from US$90 without fuel but including a driver.

Coaster Bus for large groups of people, this is the only vehicle which can accommodate you, most especially if you want to move together as a group in one vehicle, it can accommodate up to 28-30. It has an air-conditioner, inbuilt fridge and adequate cargo space in rear and roof top. On discount rate for our clients and low season we can reserve it for you at usd130 per day from usd140 including a driver but without flue.

Gorillas in Our Midst

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Gorillas in Our Midst

Only 1060 of these magnificent beasts live in the mountainous African jungle, but numbers are recovering and tourists are helping to ensure their survival.The Bwindi Impenetrable Forest certainly lives up to its name. The canopy is a roof of tightly intertwined trees and vines that create layer upon layer of shadow. The early-morning cloud hangs low and uninviting amid the branches. Our guide, Male, promises, however, that the forest can be infiltrated — but it’s not going to be easy.

Fifteen minutes into our trek through Uganda’s great forest, I lose count of the number of times I have slipped on the muddy ground. So has Male, apparently, who carries on regardless. As he disappears into the deep green, the only thing I can hear is the sound of his machete thrashing through the thick undergrowth and a murmur of excited voices. I pause to catch my breath (the higher altitude makes you feel more unfit than you might otherwise), and, suddenly, through a gap in the trees, I see the unmistakable, magnificent silhouette of a great ape. It’s hard to exaggerate the sense of exhilaration you feel laying eyes on a mountain gorilla.

As an animal lover and trained zoologist, I have been dreaming of this moment for a long time. But you don’t have to be a nature geek to get the thrill. I understand immediately what David Attenborough meant when he said, ‘There is more meaning and mutual understanding in exchanging a glance with a gorilla than with any other animal I know.’I’m in Uganda with the Brightonbased World Primate Safaris. Not only do they offer expert knowledge of primates and the best places to see them, but they support the local communities and work alongside conservation organisations such as The Born Free Foundation.

The goal of our trip is gorilla trekking in the wild, not just in Uganda but across the border in Rwanda too.We’re staying at the Gorilla Forest Camp,a sumptuous tented lodge, and one of only two places to stay within the Impenetrable Forest, which means a crucial extra half-hour in bedwith a hot-water bottle before the morning trek. We arrived in Entebbe on Lake Victoria a week ago, traveling west by 4×4, following the foothills of the Rwenzori mountains southwards with our anticipation of seeing the gorillas growing every step of the way.Distances are short compared to most of East Africa — safari sites are usually between two and five hours’ drive away.

From the 4×4 window, Uganda’s landscape was gloriously inconstant — mountains slope into plains of grass and acacia, thick jungle melts into eastern savannah. We walked with chimpanzees in Kibale National Forest, watched hippos and crocodiles wallowing in mud on the banks of the Kazinga Channel and witnessed lions climbing trees in Ishasha, Queen Elizabeth National Park.And now I’m in Bwindi, home to one of the richest ecosystems in Africa, located on the far south western tip of Uganda, literally face to face with a gorilla. And not just one. I feel like I am being watched from every angle — and I am. Our gorilla is part of a 22-strong family group, and the biggest habituated group of gorillas in Bwindi. There are gorillas everywhere. Adults are busy feeding while juveniles slide down tree trunks like fluffy firemen. And as we creep nearer the centre of the group it is clear which great ape demands the most attention.

In the distance sits a regal silver back, glaring at his visitors with vague contempt. After several minutes, he emanates a mighty huff and turns his muscular back on us, showing off a fine matt of grey hair. Male whispers that this is Rwansigozi, meaning ‘strong young man’. Rwansigozi lies back contentedly, his deep-throated murmurs rumbling through the impenetrable forest. Another juvenile somersaults between two snoozing adults, pulling at leaves and grasping at the vines. He bounces up and down, thumping his chest to show us how tough he is. Nearby, a new mother eyes the humans nervously, clasping her youngest to her chest. Her infant glares at us with inquisitive and huorous eyes. The gorillas share their forest with a bewildering diversity of creatures: 120 species of mammals, 346 of birds, 202 of butterflies, 27 of frogs, chameleons and geckos to list just a few. But it is for its gorillas that it is best known and it’s depressing to think that the 480 remaining Bwindi gorillas represent half the world’s population of this endangered species. Only about 1060 mountain gorillas are thought to survive in Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.

Since they were first recorded in the wild in the 1850s, numbers have been threatened by poaching, hunting, disease, habitat destruction, and war. Poaching has died down, though there are still reports of sporadic killings and trap casualties. The survival of this species is in large part due to the ongoing work of park rangers, local communities, and international conservationists and the Ugandan and Rwandan governments. Both countries have invested large sums in conservation projects, and are reaping the rewards of increased tourism. Many of the remaining gorillas have been ‘habituated’, a process that, in effect, involves someone sitting in their midst for four or five years.

There are four habituated mountain gorilla groups in Uganda and seven in Rwanda, and a maximum of eight tourists are allowed to visit the group each day. We are at full capacity today with a mainly European contingent and we have been assigned the Habinyanja or ‘H’ group, which has been receiving tourists since 1999. As I crouch in the bushes staring at this magnificent species, it’s easy to see why people want to come here. And it’s important they do. At £300 per person per day, trekking brings £2 million to Uganda and Rwanda, which accounts for around 50 per cent of Uganda’s Wildlife Authorities’ annual income and funds staff training, anti-poaching patrols and the protection of the national parks. Strict controls are in place to protect the animals.

No one with a cold or flu is allowed in and we’re instructed to keep seven metres from the gorillas at all times (although the gorillas sometimes have different ideas). Including the income from hotels and restaurants, gorilla tourism in this region amounts to £13 million a year. High-end ecolodges are sprouting up to support the growing demand. After the appetite-building experience of watching gorillas chomp their way through mountains of foliage (they have a 50lb-a-day bamboo habit), the Gorilla Forest Camp serves up a four-course dinner back at the camp.

“At £300 a person per day, trekking brings £2 million to Uganda and Rwanda, which accounts for around 50 per cent of Uganda’s wildlife Authorities’ annual income and funds staff training, anti-poaching patrols and the protection of the national parks.”

There’s also a crackling bonfire, around which guests compare their ape encounters to the beat of an African drum. The only down side of seeing gorillas is that you can’t help wanting to see them again. And at £300 ago, it’s a business. But after our successful trek in Bwindi, we are eager to repeat the experience and head-over the border to Rwanda whose gorillas were made famous by the American primatologist Dian Fossey.

On entering Rwanda, there are signs of construction at every turn. Fifteen years on from the 1994 genocide, Rwanda is a nation determined to get back on its feet. The government is pumping money into regeneration and over the next three to four years, existing hotels will be revamped and new sites developed, making Rwanda an enticing prospect for those looking to safari in style. I am staying at Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge, Rwanda’s first truly five-star accommodation. It’s a unique partnership between Kenya-based safari experts, Governors’ Camp, and is run in conjunction with the African Wildlife Foundation to support local conservation initiatives.

Surrounded by the mighty Virunga volcanoes, the lodge has eight stone cottages each with their own wood fire – it gets very cold in the mountains, especially if you’ve spent a few days in the dry heat of Uganda’s savannah. Each cottage has its own sitting room complete with fire places that are kept well-stoked for your return, while the main lodge has big comfy sofas where you can cuddle up with a cup of tea and freshly made cake or gin and tonic after a long day trekking. Our guides are busy on their mobile phones talking to the trackers who left hours ahead of us to locate the apes. We are in luck. Just when I think we have started to walk round in circles, the guide points to fresh tracks in front of us.

Seeing the gorillas a second time is just as exhilarating as the first — perhaps even more so because we had worked so hard to find them. The apes have made a clearing in the nettles. Deliberately ignoring our presence, the adults lay about snoozing or grooming each other as their young play fight and practise their chest beating.

Rwanda’s gorillas look larger than their Ugandan counterparts, or maybe they just have thicker coats to protect them against the colder weather. Either way, the silverback of the group, Kurira, is the most impressive beast I’ve seen —a bigger version of Rwansigozi. Kurira sits holding court,his family scattered in loose clusters in front of him. Three juveniles play noisily.One pretends to be bored momentarily, feigning interest in the nearby vegetation before pouncing on his unprepared opponent. Kurira, seemingly irritated by their playful mischief, reaches over and slaps the unsuspecting delinquent with his massive hand. A huge thud reverberates in the trees. As Kurira rises onto his fists and strolls past us,his authority is frighteningly obvious.

Thirty eight gorillas stop what they are doing and follow him up the volcano.We watch breathlessly while gorillas stuff vegetation into their mouths at impressive speeds.Every so often, above the crunch of perpetual munching, they break wind in a concerto of unconscious obscenity. My time with these great apes is drawing to a close.

Experience the Wild Side of Africa

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Wild Africa

As dawn breaks, there was a stirring happening. The air was cool, but charged with an electricity that cuts through the static and leaves you feeling on edge. The smell of the bush danced on the air, a sweet mix of florals, rustic earthy scents and petrichor from the morning dew.

The sun’s golden glow blanketed the plains, its warmth still developing with each minute that passed. The sound of morning birds filled the air in a symphony of calls. There was movement on the horizon. It was my first visit to the Maasai Mara in Kenya. Affectionally known as the Mara, it is a large game reserve in Narok County, which continues to the Serengeti National Park in Mara Region, Tanzania.

The Maasai Mara was named in honour of the ancestral inhabitants of the area, the Maasai people. They described the area when looked at from afar, “Mara”, which is Maa (Maasai language) for “spotted,” an apt description for the circles of trees, scrub, savanna, and cloud shadows that mark the area.

Covering some 1,510 km2, the Maasai Mara stretches for as far as the eye can see. Even then, it is only a fraction of the Greater Mara ecosystem, which covers some 25,000 km2 and includes the following Group Ranches: Koiyaki, Lemek, Ol Chorro Oirowua, Olkinyei, Siana, Maji Moto, Naikara, Ol Derkesi, Kerinkani, Oloirien, and Kimintet.

If I were a vulture circling and looking across the land, I would see the Serengeti Park to the south, the Siria escarpment to the west, and Maasai pastoral ranches to the north, east and west. I would see the Sand, Talek River and Mara River all sustaining the reserve with fringing shrubs and trees.

Access
The day earlier, I boarded a small Air Kenya DeHavilland Twin Otter 300 plane at Wilson Airport in Kenya’s capital of Nairobi and flew east for about two hours to land at Olkiombo Airstrip. Due to the size of the plane, luggage allowance was limited to a soft bag weighing no more than 15kg.
The flight was where the excitement started, cruising over the countryside speckled with townships and farms and expanses of terrain that was just empty. Not for the uneasy flyer, the flight took a few pitstops along the way, each time landing on a dirt runway, which seemed in the middle of nowhere.

Camp
With the dying light, it was straight from Olkiombo Airstrip to my accommodation, Mara Expedition Camp. Mara Expedition Camp sits on a small bend in the Ntiakitiak River, where a thick riverine forest meets the unending savannah in the north-central section of the Maasai Mara.

A small camp with just five tents accommodating up to ten guests, the intimacy of this camp is a main drawcard. There was a real feel of authenticity here with an air of yesteryear in the design, which draws stylistic reference from the old, authentic expedition camps of the colonial era.

Constructed in the spirit of mobility and non-permanence out of deference to the wilderness, which surrounds it, the camp is tented safari style. However, these tents are far from those you buy at your local camping store. The tastefully appointed tents take glamping off the scale, and you hardly feel like it is a tented camp. Set at ground level and shaded by the forest canopy, the tents forego fancy amenities, but still leave you wanting for nothing.
The oversized bed sat centre of the main room and gave a view out to the bush. A separate bathroom included an antique camp shower that pulls from a brass bucket, adding to the overall experience. The tent was decorated with an eclectic yet co-ordinated assembly of what early explorers may have carried with them – brass chandeliers, old Indian campaign chests, rich leather and hardwood furniture – combined with rich textiles and soft cottons.

Into the wild
Waking before the sun, I was ready to embark on my first game drive of my stay. It was late October and still relatively cold in the mornings. Armed with an artillery of cameras and lenses, freshly brewed coffee and a traditional Maasai shuka cloth that is affectionately known as the “African blanket” to keep me warm.

There was just myself and JP, the game ranger, in the open-air vehicle as we bounced off into the breaking dawn.
It didn’t take me long to grasp that this is a place of learning, where Africa teaches lessons that will change the way you view the world in one of the most incredible classrooms on the planet – the incomparable Maasai Mara. A place where lions and other big cats own the night; a place where hippos stake claim to vast territories; a place where we submit to the supreme power of wild Africa and take our lead from Mother Nature.

The golden glow of the sky faded as the sun rose higher in the sky and the slight stirring of wildlife during the breaking dawn became more active. There seemed to be a sense of urgency to start the day. Just a few kilometres out from the camp and that supreme power of the wild was upon me.

Giraffes walked gracefully across the plains, curiously stopping every so often to glance around and survey the area. Grand majestic elephants paraded slowly past, the younger elephants trailing playfully behind. Wild dogs called in the distance, an excited chatter like that of children running off to play.

Herds of wildebeest congregated as if attending a morning board meeting. Mixed with them were dazzles of zebra and I am told these are the stragglers that did not venture on the great migration. Described as the greatest show on Earth, the Great Migration is an overwhelming, humbling and quite simply amazing wildlife experience.
Every year, millions of wildebeest, zebras and gazelles combined gather on the vast plains of the Serengeti in Tanzania to begin their race towards greener grazing lands. Following the rains, they head north towards the Maasai Mara before about-turning and dashing south again. It’s a sprint for survival, covering a total of over 1,800 miles, and the journey is incredibly tough, where only the strong survive.

Survival is a battle that is played out daily in the Mara, and from the serene start to my morning, I was about to be quickly awoken by such a battle.

A lioness crouched in the long grass, her body twitched in anticipation. Although her stare was fixed on the target, she was aware of everything that was going on around her. The gazelle unfortunately was not, otherwise it would have realised what immediate danger it was in and the fate that lay ahead. It had been only minutes that I had been watching the lioness’s stealth, but it felt like hours, and the anticipation numbed my body. I had to remind myself to breathe.

Best Diving Spots in East Africa

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Mafia Island

East Africa is renowned for its wildlife safaris, breathtaking landscapes, and diverse cultures. However, many are unaware that this region also boasts some of the finest diving locations globally. With its vibrant coral reefs, historic shipwrecks, gentle whale sharks, and an array of lively marine life, the coastline and islands of East Africa present a true paradise for diving enthusiasts.

Whether you are just starting out or are an experienced diver, East Africa has enchanting experiences awaiting you beneath the waves. In this article, we will guide you through the premier diving spots in Tanzania, Kenya, Mozambique, and select areas of Madagascar. Prepare to uncover the hidden gems of the Indian Ocean!

Mafia Island, Tanzania

Mafia Island ranks among the premier diving locations in East Africa. Situated to the south of Zanzibar, it is encompassed within the Mafia Island Marine Park, a safeguarded area renowned for its exceptionally healthy coral reefs.

The island’s uniqueness lies in its abundant biodiversity. Visitors can encounter more than 400 species of fish, along with both hard and soft corals, as well as the gentle whale sharks. The season for whale sharks extends from October to March, during which these magnificent creatures frequent the warm waters surrounding the island. Engaging in swimming and diving alongside them offers an unforgettable experience.

Popular dive sites include:

  • Chole Bay: calm waters, great for beginners
  • Kinasi Pass: drift diving with strong currents and big fish
  • Milimani Reef: home to groupers, stingrays, and snappers

Mafia remains largely unspoiled, offering a tranquil and genuine environment for diving without the presence of large crowds.

Mnemba Atoll, Zanzibar (Tanzania)

Zanzibar is renowned for its stunning beaches, aromatic spices, and rich cultural heritage. However, located just off its northeastern coast is Mnemba Atoll, a small island encircled by some of the clearest waters and most vibrant coral reefs in Tanzania.

This atoll is perfect for divers of all experience levels. Typically, visibility is excellent, and the currents are mild. The marine ecosystem features turtles, reef sharks, dolphins, and various species of tropical fish. Additionally, divers may encounter moray eels, octopuses, and lionfish.

Best dive spots:

  • Aquarium: calm and shallow, good for beginners
  • Wattabomi: popular site with sandy bottom and vibrant corals
  • Kichwani Reef: deep walls and exciting drop-offs

Mnemba is an excellent option for visitors to Zanzibar seeking to enhance their beach vacation with some aquatic adventures.

Pemba Island, Tanzania

For those seeking an adventurous and less-travelled diving experience, Pemba Island is the ideal destination. Located north of Zanzibar, Pemba is renowned for its dramatic underwater cliffs, powerful currents, and pristine waters.

This location is more suited for experienced divers due to its demanding conditions, yet the potential rewards are significant:

Large pelagic species like tuna, barracuda, and sharks

Vertical walls covered in coral

Remote reefs that feel untouched by humans

Top dive sites:

  • Misali Island: a marine conservation area with rare species
  • Fundu Gap: exciting drift dives and large fish
  • Swiss Reef: vibrant coral and schools of fish

Pemba offers adventure, beauty, and a true sense of escape.

Watamu Marine National Park, Kenya

Traveling north along the coast to Kenya, Watamu Marine National Park stands out as one of Africa’s oldest and most stunning marine parks. Situated approximately 105 kilometers from Mombasa, it provides some of the finest reef diving experiences in the nation.

The coral gardens in this area are teeming with vibrant marine life, including:

Green and hawksbill turtles

Parrotfish, angelfish, butterflyfish

Occasional dolphins and reef sharks

The region is ideal for snorkeling and glass-bottom boat excursions, making it an excellent choice for families.

Popular sites include:

  • Turtle Reef: shallow and perfect for photography
  • Coral Garden: vibrant colors and lots of fish
  • Temple Point: deeper dives for advanced divers

Watamu is situated within a protected reserve, ensuring that the marine ecosystem is well-preserved and thriving.

Kisite-Mpunguti Marine Park, Kenya

Situated close to the Tanzanian border, Kisite-Mpunguti Marine Park is often referred to as the “Galápagos of Africa” due to its rich biodiversity.

The park is renowned for providing exceptional diving experiences in Kenya, featuring stunning underwater scenery and abundant large fish activity.

You can expect to see:

Whale sharks and manta rays (in season)

Dolphins, turtles, and reef sharks

Bright coral walls and caves

Best dive sites:

  • Kisite Reef: wide range of fish and soft corals
  • Mpunguti Coral Gardens: complex reefs and schooling fish
  • Nyuli Reef: excellent for experienced divers

The optimal period for a visit is from October to March, as this is when the sea remains tranquil and visibility is at its peak.

Bazaruto Archipelago, Mozambique

Mozambique receives fewer visitors compared to Tanzania and Kenya; however, it boasts exceptional diving opportunities. The Bazaruto Archipelago, located in the Indian Ocean, features warm waters, pristine beaches, and unspoiled coral reefs.

This region is renowned for its dugongs, seasonal humpback whales, and whale sharks. The marine biodiversity in this area is remarkably abundant.

Best dive spots:

  • Two Mile Reef: full of marine life and perfect for all levels
  • San Sebastian Point: for experienced divers looking for action
  • The Aquarium: easy, shallow dives with beautiful corals

Bazaruto offers excellent conditions for underwater photography due to its remarkable clarity.

Nosy Be and Mitsio Islands, Madagascar

Madagascar might not be on the itinerary for numerous travelers, yet its northern coastline near Nosy Be offers an exceptional diving experience. The waters are warm, crystal-clear, and teeming with unexpected wonders.

Diverse marine life awaits, including vibrant nudibranchs, large groupers, and sea turtles. The coral reefs are both robust and varied.

Highlights:

  • Tanikely Marine Reserve: coral gardens and reef fish
  • Mitsio Wrecks: sunken ships with great marine life
  • Whale season: June to November

Nosy Be is a serene and picturesque destination that offers the opportunity to appreciate nature, both on land and underwater.

Conclusion

East Africa offers much more than just safaris and mountains; it is also a premier destination for diving enthusiasts in the Indian Ocean. Whether you wish to swim alongside whale sharks in Tanzania, discover coral gardens in Kenya, or dive with dugongs in Mozambique, this region provides a diverse array of underwater experiences.

Each diving location possesses its own distinct appeal—some are ideal for novices, while others present challenges for even the most seasoned divers. However, they all share a profound connection to nature, an abundance of vibrant marine life, and breathtaking scenery.

If you are considering a trip to East Africa, be sure to include your swimsuit and underwater camera in your packing list. An extraordinary underwater adventure awaits you!

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